Expedition in Kishtwar Himalayas By: Dr. Thakur Naveen Kotwal

Expedition in Kishtwar Himalayas

By: Dr. Thakur Naveen Kotwal

Courtesy: www.dailyexcelsior.com

Kishtwar, the upland valley in the north - east corner of Jammu region, is situated among the picturesque folds of the Pir Panjal and the Greater Himalayan Range. The area is drained by the Chenab (Chandrabhaga) river system which, flowing in from neighboring Himachal Pradesh, enters the area through Paddar, home of the famous Sapphire mines. This area collectively called as the Kishtwar Himalayas, comprises of several high altitude peaks , passes and glaciers. Across the Kishtwar Himalayas is the region of Zanskar (Ladakh). The people of Paddar and Zanskar have a long history of trade and cultural exchange and have been using 2 or 3 high altitude passes to cross over, the Greater Himalayan range. Of these passes the historic, 5330mts (17770ft) high Omasi-La pass is the the most exotic.

On the 15th of June, 2007 an 11 member, core and logistical, expedition team, headed by this writer, CEO of "Extreme Himalayan Adventures" a Jammu based, Eco-adventure agency, headed to Gulabgarh (Paddar) to attempt the historic 110Kms long trans Himalayan high altitude route, making it the first agency in 16 years, to successfully organize and conduct the high altitude hiking expedition from the Kishtwar side to the Zanskar side. 

The historic importance of the route goes back to 1835 during the times of General Zorawar Singh Kahluria (1786-1841), the famous Dogra General of Maharaja Gulab Singh, and the then governor of Kishtwar (Kishtavada). 

To the east of Kishtwar are the snow-clad mountains of the upper Himalayas - the rivers of Zanskar, Suru, and Drass rise from these snow clad mountains, and flow across the plateau of Ladakh into the Indus River. Several petty principalities in this region were tributary to the Gyalpo (King) of Ladakh - in 1834 one of these, the Raja of Timbus, sought General Zorawar's help against the Gyalpo. Meanwhile the Rajput general had been burning to distinguish himself by expanding the kingdom of Raja Gulab Singh. This gave rise to the future, Ladakh campaigns.

With final checks made at Gulabgarh and the potters and ponies ready, the expedition team followed the gushing Bout Nala to Kundail, a small village, 12Kms upstream. The night camp was established at the yatri shelter at Kundail. On the second day the team after crossing Chasoti (approach for peaks like Arjuna, Chapra, Crooked Finger, Flat Top, Gulap Kangri & Hagshu ) and the Hamoori village & glacier, reached Machail (29Kms from Gulabgarh), for a short refreshing tea halt. We continued on to the Buddhist village of Lasooni , 2 Kms onwards from Machail for the night halt. After a bed bug full night we left early morning for Sumcham, the last inhabited village on the rugged route. Sumcham ,a small cluster of 11 houses, is the drinking and dinning resort for Gaddis of Paddar, with not much to do during the day, the Gaddis (Shepards)are busy drinking Chang (local drink) & Desi (local liquor) . Meat & Shisshi (local vegetable) being a regular part of the diet. The local liquor and hospitability, is exchanged, for the meat from the Gaddis. A pure, barter system. Sumcham is also the gateway to the Sapphire mines of Paddar, an area bout 1000ft above the village and 3-4 hrs away. 

Early in 1882 a few specimens of the gems were sent down from Shimla to the Indian Museum, Kolkata and examined by the British geologists. In the year 1887 the Kashmir Durbar, finding that the revenue from the mines, which had been worked by them with considerable profit since the first discovery, was steadily diminishing, applied to the Government of India for a geologist to examine the mines. The then Deputy Superintendent of Geographical Survey of India, Mr Tom D LaTouche was deputed to visit and report upon their condition. He visited the small upland valley in 1888, where sapphires are found is about 1,000 yards long by 400 yards area, broad at its lower end; the floor rises at an average angle of about 20° to the north-west, narrowing to a point, and is thickly covered with loose debris fallen from the surrounding cliffs. It is from a narrow strip of this debris, averaging about 100 feet in width, along the northern side of the valley, that the sapphires were obtained. These days the mines are well protected and guarded and are not open for public or travelers.

Of all the massifs in the Kishtwar Himalayas, Brahma, comprising of four peaks, is the most striking and challenging.Its four peaks from west to east: Brahma I, 6,416 m (21,050 ft, locally called Pappi), Flat Top, 6,103 m (20,023 ft), Brahma II, 6,485 m (21,276 ft, locally called Dharmi) and Arjuna, 6,230 m (20,439 ft).Brahma I being the site of the first successful major climb in the Kishtwar Himalayas. Famed British mountaineer Chris Bonington, along with Nick Estcourt, and aided by the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering, made the first ascent of Brammah I in 1973 via the Southeast Ridge. The second ascent of Brammah I was also made by a British group, comprising Paul Belcher, Duncan Nicholson, Jon Scott, and Anthony Wheaton, in 1978. Unfortunately Nicholson and Scott perished on the descent. 

At the Rhua Hi camp, the team had an early start, the time when the snow is hard, and easy to walk on. Crevasses (cracks) can prove lfatal, if one falls in it, so the team has to rope up for safety. The 4 kms long glacier gave way to the magnificent Omasi La pass, At 5330 mts (17770 ft) it's a sight, a narrow cut in the mighty Greater Himalayan range, with a rock formation that looks like a huge Shiva, on one side of the pass. From the pass one can see the Kishtwar side and the Zanskar side of the range. The descent to the Zanskar side is steep and technical in nature. The Mooling glacier on the Zanskar side is 5 Kms long and tiring, so the team camped at the end of the glacier at, Pula Stone Hut, though not an ideal camp site. The Zanskar valley is a total contrast from the Paddar side. There is little vegetation, rocks and muddy water is in abundance and after every 5 or 6 kms is a high altitude small Phuhalli (pasture). The largest jungle of Zanskar stands at 2 feet tall, the local shrubs. After covering 19 Kms the next day we reached the monastery of Zonkhul, perched on a hill side its very popular among the foreign tourists. The camp that evening was full of delight and satisfaction over the attempt. We reached the town of Ating, early morning and hitched a ride to Padum, the largest town of Zanskar. The team was received at Padum, by the Block Development officer of Padum (Zanskar), Mr Susheel Kumar who provided the much required shelter and relief. An onward road journey of 750Kms from Padum to Jammu, marked the end of the expedition. 

The expedition, is thus an effort by 'Extreme Himalayan Adventures' to open the doors of the Kishtwar Himalayas, home to several mighty peaks and glaciers, for adventure tourism related activities and future commercial mountain expeditions..

By: Dr. Thakur Naveen Kotwal

 Courtesy: www.dailyexcelsior.com